In search of İstanbul’s historic water supply

Much of the action in novelist Jenny White's gripping 19th century detective story “The Abyssinian Proof” takes place in and around a village inside old İstanbul that sounds as if it must surely have been made up.

Set inside an ancient cistern dating back to the fifth century, it's a self-contained and almost absurdly quaint place in which houses peep out from amid the luxuriant foliage growing out of crumbling antique walls. Could such a place ever have existed? Well, actually it did well into the 1970s when, in “Strolling Through İstanbul,” John Freely and Hilary Sumner-Boyd described it as a “very picturesque little farm village whose housetops barely reach to the level of the surrounding streets.”

They were describing the Cistern of Aspar, a giant hole in the ground in front of the mosque of Sultan Selim I as you approach it from Fatih and Çarşamba. But what on earth was this cistern, and what role did it play in city life?

Way back in 1978, I remember being taken by a Turkish friend to visit the Yerebatan Sarnıcı (Underground Cistern) close to the Aya Sofya in Sultanahmet. At that time, it was not officially open to the public, and we stood at the edge of a dark space that seemed to stretch back into infinity, peering at the dim shapes of 336 soaring pillars topped off with elaborate Byzantine capitals; a steady sound of dripping provided the soundtrack to our visit. It was a sixth century cistern, my friend told me, although at the time that meant absolutely nothing to me. Now, of course, the Yerebatan Sarnıcı is one of the city's main attractions, kitted out with walkways, suitably evocative lighting and the haunting sound of the ney (reed flute), and always crowded with visitors who gaze in awe at the sea of columns and at the fish swimming in the water beneath them, before trekking along the walkways to inspect the upside-down head of the Gorgon Medusa adorning the base of a column at the rear. However, probably not one person in a hundred really appreciates the part that the cistern played in ensuring that first Byzantium, then Constantinople and finally İstanbul were kept supplied with water.

Most of the water had to be collected either from the Belgrade Forest or from densely wooded parts of Trakya (Thrace) beyond the city walls, and Yerebatan is just the best-known piece in a complicated jigsaw of cisterns, aqueducts, water towers and reservoirs that kept it flowing. This water supply system was surveyed by the British Leverhulme Trust between 2000 and 2005, and their report concluded that it was “one of the greatest achievements of hydraulic engineering known from antiquity,” and this in spite of the fact that large parts of it still lie unmapped in the woods of Trakya.

The most conspicuous monument to the system is the Aqueduct of Valens that straddles busy Atatürk Bulvarı as it runs up from the Golden Horn to Fatih. Dating back to 375, the aqueduct, a double-tier of arches, still runs for almost a kilometer and would originally have been attached to a network of pipes that conveyed water from beyond Edirnekapı, along the ridges of the Sixth, Fifth and Fourth Hills, then on to Beyazıt Meydanı. It continued in use right through until the 19th century, which accounts for its astonishing state of preservation.

The Aqueduct of Valens is the only such structure to survive inside the walled city, but if you head out to the Belgrade Forest, you will find several more examples, including the Eğrikemer (Crooked Aqueduct) and the Uzunkemer (Long Aqueduct), both of them designed by Mimar Sinan, the architect more famous for his beautiful mosques, during the reign of Sultan Süleyman the Magnificent. Sinan is also believed to have rebuilt the Maglova Kemeri (Maglova Aqueduct) that dated back to the time of the Emperor Justinian. Also buried in the forest are a series of beautiful historic “bends” (reservoirs) that still store water for the city.

The aqueducts left an unmissable mark on the horizon, as did the extraordinary “su terazı,” stone towers that helped drag water up gradients. One of these still stands in Sultanahmet, very close to the Milyon monument and the entrance to the Yerebatan Sarnıcı, but there are many others dotted about the city: a cluster of three, for example, in Kilyos, and another one beside the Karacaahmet Cemetery in Haydarpaşa.

Also conspicuous were the buildings used to disperse the water around each neighborhood, the most famous of these being the “taksim” (water distribution point) that gave its name to Taksim. Recently opened to the public, this consisted of the long stone building that closes off Taksim Square where water used to be stored, plus the small octagonal building nearby to which it was piped for distribution around the area. Of course, the final pieces in this network were the ubiquitous çeşmes (fountains) which can be found in every neighborhood of the old city, sometimes still with brick storage tanks attached to them. Some of the fountains were truly magnificent structures: viz., the Sultan Ahmet III Fountain that stands in front of Topkapı Palace, the Tophane Fountain, the Hekimoğlu Ali Paşa fountain at Kabataş and the Saliha Valide Hatun fountain in Azapkapı. Increasingly, the fountains are being restored to their original splendor, often by modern water-selling companies. Paired with the çeşmes were the sebils, small kiosks enclosed with grilles that were usually to be found attached to the outer wall of a mosque and from which water was dispensed to thirsty passers-by.

In contrast to the aqueducts, towers and fountains, the network of cisterns in which the water was stored kept a low profile, their very existence forgotten as the city's population contracted and the need for water reduced. Hard though it is to imagine it now, even the Yerebatan Sarnıcı was forgotten for centuries, the first Western visitor to learn of it being a 16th century Frenchman called Petrus Gyllius, who left a lyrical description of how he was taken fishing in a boat there by a man who had tunneled into it just as some unscrupulous locals dig wells beneath their city-center properties today.

The success of Yerebatan as a tourist drawcard has generated greater interest in the many other cisterns dotted about the old city. For example, the Binbirdirek Sarnıcı just off Divan Yolu, which in spite of its name (1,001 Pillars Cistern) boasts a measly 224 columns, has now been turned into an entertainment center, while the Theodosius Sarnıcı, behind what was the Eminönü Belediyesi building, is being readied to open to the public. On pretty little Söğükçeşme Sokak, which runs between Aya Sofya and the outer wall of the Topkapı Sarayı, the Sarnıç Restaurant is housed inside an ancient cistern, as is the Sultan Sarnıç restaurant in Çarşamba. Another cistern with especially lovely Byzantine capitals lurks beneath the Nakkas carpet shop in Cankurtaran.

So where does the Cistern of Aspar fit into the picture? Actually, there is some uncertainty about the part that the city's open-air cisterns played in the water distribution system. Some argue that the water collected in these vast cisterns was left open to the air to be purified. It seems far more likely, however, that they were simply large reservoirs from which water could be drawn to irrigate nearby fields. Four such cisterns are known. Called generically “çukurbostan” (sunken gardens), three of them -- the Cisterns of Aspar, Aetios and Mocius -- have now been fitted out with gardens and sports facilities. The fourth, the striking Fildamı (Elephant Stables) out in Bakırköy, stands empty.

Delicious Pictures From Turkey

Uzuncaburç ancient city in Mersin.


Even though there are dozens of kebab restaurants in the town, The Historical Kazancılar Market offers the best Adana kebab.




Kahramanmaraş is famous for its exquisite ice cream.


Susurluk Ayranı is a drink made of yoghurt with water.


Mersin's popular dish tantuni.


Shish kebaps.


“Tirmis” is a snack sold on street stands in Mersin.
Antalya piyazi is a starter dish and made of beans, vinegar, boiled egg, onion and parsley together with tahin as sauce over it.


Antalya is famous for its jams, which are made from the province’s abundant fruits.


Tourists in Mersin.


The 1,500-year-old Taşköprü (Stone Bridge).

[Do not return without seeing, eating and drinking (1)] Mediterranean shores offer more pleasures than just sea and history

Every part of Turkey is worth seeing thanks to its cultural richness, historical fabric and natural beauties, all of which captivate visitors. Its regions offer a wide variety of tourism options in terms of faith, its beautiful flatlands, hunting and health tourism, as well as the sea, sand and sun.

Turkey fascinates everyone with its cultural richness. Bringing together meals cooked using a diverse range of ingredients grown in the fertile lands of Anatolia, Turkish cuisine also offer flavors to suit every taste. The offerings available to visitors vary from region to region -- spices, cultural traditions, fresh fruits and vegetables and more. The culinary specialties available to visitors are surely a highlight of the experience of traveling through Turkey, no matter who the visitor.

The Mediterranean region, which is a meeting point of the green and the blue defined as the “sea, sand and sun,” has numerous features to offer visitors with its cultural and historical heritage. Apart from its natural beauties which are called “natural wonders,” the region is also awaiting for anyone who is interested in hunting, faith tourism or visiting the Mediterranean flatlands.

Moreover, we should not forget the rich cuisine of the region: the different types of kebabs in Adana, which is known as the nation's kebab capital; the Arap kadayıfı and tirmis in Antalya; tantuni and kerebiç in Mersin; kabune in Isparta; and hummus and künefe in Hatay are only few of great tastes visitors should try in the Mediterranean. Those who want to enjoy the sunset and see the ancient theater in Side; those who wonder about the point where rivers meet the sea in Manavgat; those who wish to visit the castle and dream about the past in historical places in Alanya; and those who want to stay in a boutique hotel in Kaleiçi prefer to spend their time in Antalya province.

Mersin, which has witnessed around 9,000 years of history, offers various alternatives to visitors with its 321-kilometer coast line, its popular dish tantuni, the food the city is famous for, and its regional culinary desserts, including the cezerye dessert.

“Its fragrance draws you in”

Those who visit Adana cannot leave before tasting kebabs prepared by expert hands in beautiful establishments, the succulent aromas of which are the first thing visitors to the city notice upon arrival. Even though there are dozens of kebab restaurants in the town, it is recommended that visitors try the Adana Kebabs at the Tarihi Kazancılar Çarşısı, an open-air market, which are accompanied by plentiful lettuce, cooked green peppers, tomatoes, spreads and salad, all in the nostalgic atmosphere of the market. People can wash down their kebab with a spicy or non-spicy glass of Şalgam.

For those who are affected by Adana's heat and want dessert after their kebab, a unique option is a dessert called bici bici. Generally sold by street vendors, the dessert is made of cornstarch, shaved ice, rosewater, and powdered sugar. This cold dessert is refreshing and delicious. On almost every corner in Adana there are vendors selling two foods: şırdan and mumbar. şırdan is the large intestine of lamb stuffed with pepper paste and rice, while mumbar is the small intestine, again stuffed with rice, along with lots of cumin and flaked red pepper.

When touring the city, a good place to visit is Adnan Menderes Boulevard, which is on the shore of the Seyhan Dam Lake. Visiting the area gives the feeling of being on the seashore. Continuing through the city, one can also see the Taşköprü (Stone Bridge), which is located at the narrowest point of the Seyhan River that runs through the city center. According to the writings of Evliya Çelebi, the bridge is 1,500 years old and during the time of Abbassid Caliph Al-Ma'mun there was a toll to cross it.

Antalya: The address for nature, history and unparalleled tastes

Antalya, which is sunny all year, is an area where millions of tourists, both Turkish and from abroad, choose to spend their vacations, enjoying some of the many attractions offered. The area is unique, not just to the Mediterranean, but also to the world and offers accommodation for people of all interests, from those who want to benefit from the hassle-free 5-star hotels with all-inclusive packages to those on a budget who show up with nothing but a backpack full of supplies.

Visitors can experience everything from sailing on luxury yachts to visiting villages full of greenery, in addition to the many natural beauties of the region. From Patara, the site of the world's first democratic parliament, to Kaş with its underwater riches, to the Father Christmas Museum in Demre and the ancient city of Myra, there are a plethora of sites to see in addition to water sports and other sea activities available to indulge in.

Antalya, a treasure chest for those interested in ancient civilizations, reveals to thousands of domestic and foreign visitors every year the remains of the rich civilizations it once hosted through sites such as the ancient cities of Termessos and Perge, the ancient Aspendos theater and the Side Aspendos Temple. Antalya is the perfect spot for those who would like to watch the sunset in Side, visit the ancient theater or catch a glimpse of the cold waters of the Manavgat falls meeting the Mediterranean. It is perfect for those who want to visit the Red Tower and its ancient naval yard and dream of the past in a historical setting, as well as for those who would like to stay at a boutique hotel inside the Kaleiçi area and enjoy the sea at Mermerli Beach, the oldest beach in town.

Those who visit Antalya for hunting or just to spend time in among nature on the vast flatlands surrounding the Toros Mountains usually prefer to visit Akseki, ıbradı, Korkuteli and Elmalı. Certainly, most visitors realize instantly that fully discovering this heaven on earth cannot possibly be done by visiting just once and return for many years at every opportunity.

Arap Kadayıfı with walnuts

In addition to its historical and natural beauty, Antalya is the ideal city for food lovers, with all sorts of budgets and tastes catered to. In its all-inclusive hotels one can find the fresh fruits, vegetables and seafood in abundance, while many restaurants and cafes scattered around town offer a range of alternatives. The city's two specialties are its own brand of "şiş köfte" (shish meatballs) and the Antalya "piyaz," a boiled-bean salad with tahini and vinegar spread generously on top, as well as a few eggs, tomatoes and onion slices. It is usually served with a garnish of parsley. These two dishes can be found in almost every restaurant in the city.

Another one of the unforgettable tastes of Antalya that can only be found here is the “Arap Kadayıfı,” a dessert made of dough mixed with cinnamon and then braised to perfection with walnuts and syrup. The dough is kneaded into crescent shaped dumplings, which are fried according to age-old traditions and then thrown into the warm syrup to make the Arap Kadayıfı, which complements the overall experience of the Antalya dinner table.

“Serpme börek,” another addictive Antalyan delicacy, can be found in the early morning hours inside the city's old shopping centers and its tiny stores. This pastry, filled with cheese or ground meat, is the ultimate Antalyan breakfast.

Another all-time favorite for food enthusiasts is the special “burnt ice cream,” made out of slightly burnt goat milk. This Antalyan specialty is one everyone must try before dying.

This is Burdur

Some may find the writing on a billboard facing the statue of Atatürk on the terrace of the Burdur Provincial Administration building, which reads, “It is here because this is Burdur; the best everything is found here,” to be quite boastful; however, the historical, cultural and natural beauty of the city is just waiting to be discovered.

In the city of Burdur -- where 70 percent of the city's population of 251,000 earns a living through livestock and farming -- archaeological finds have revealed that the city's history dates back to the Neolithic era. This is why the museum in Burdur, which hosts the remains of historic towns such as Sagalassos and Kremna, is important.

The Burdur Museum, which received the Special Award at the European Museum of the Year awards, hosts 59,000 artifacts. Burdur, which is a unique stop for tourists who have an interest in history, is also home to many attractions which are bound to appeal to nature lovers, such as the Burdur Lake, the Salda Lake in the town of Yeşilova, the Söbüce plateau, the Karanlık Canyon and the first cave opened up to tourism, the İnsuyu Cave.

For those who do not want to leave without tasting the regional dishes, they must taste the shish meatballs; stuffed grape leaves; “katmer” -- a layered pastry desert; meat börek (pastry); crushed walnut spread; and poppy and hemp helva, a dessert.

Eating Habits of the Turks and their Associated Behaviors

“The soul comes through the throat.”

Introduction

Nutrition is a central fact of existence for all living things, it is something we must achieve in order to remain alive. We may approach the subject of nutrition in Turkey, and Turkish cuisine, from a variety of standpoints. Here, I will examine it chiefly from the standpoint of social anthropology, and support my statements both with examples from literature and my own observations.

Different societies have different cultures, and among these cultural differences is the element of eating habits. All people must eat to live. But what a person eats depends on both geographical conditions, and upon his culture.

What a person chooses in the way of food, how he acquires it, how he cooks it, and how, when and where he eats it, all change according to the habits of his society. Turkish society exhibits considerable differences from other cultures in terms of types of food and flavors.

Throughout our country, eating habits exhibit variety according to history, region, and even among various sections of society such as urban or village dwellers. In addition, we can speak of common features despite these differences. Here I would like to concentrate mostly on the common features. In other words, these common features are expressions of behavioral patterns.

With a long history, the Turks have a rich culinary culture. This wealth is evident in the rich variety of foods. In addition, patterns of behavior have developed in relation to all foods and drinks.

To give a few examples of this culinary wealth: in the Black Sea region alone there are over twenty different dishes incorporating corn. Also in the Black Sea region the many different ways of preparing hamsi, a sardine-like fish, indicates the richness of our cuisine: Fried hamsi, hamsi bread, pilaf, kaygana (a sort of crepe), köfte, dible, boiled, grilled, in börek, steamed with onions and tomatoes...the list goes on.

In Kayseri, there are twenty different varieties of pastırma, the ancestor of the pastrami of the west. One writer says: Every one of the twenty varieties of pastırma has a separate character, a separate flavor. If we tell someone from Kayseri, ‘Count twenty kinds of pastırma,’ he will begin counting: Sırt, kuşgömü, kenar mehle, eğrice, omuz, dilme, şekerpare, kürek, kapak, döş, etek, bacak, orta bez, kavrama, meme, kelle, kanlı bez, arka bas, tütünlük..” (Gümüşkayak, 1966)

We also have a great variety of eggplant dishes, salads and types of kebab (roast meats). Bıldırcın kebabı, çevirme kebabı, kuzu çevirme, çöp kebabı, çubuk kebabı, şiş kebabı, deri kebabı, pideli kebap, Adana kebap, saç kebabı, tas kebabı and tandır kebabı are just a few of the many examples.

We observe that foods of Anatolia generally fall into three groups: plant/vegetables, meats, and bread/doughs. Most of these have been used since antiquity. There is actually a tie between civilization and types of food. Criteria such as the quality, number, type and array of tools used in food preparation, the materials cooked themselves, the way they are cooked, and whether or not they are eaten directly as they occur in nature, all give an idea as to that country’s level of civilization and taste. In anthropological terms, eating habits comprise a cultural complex. In other words, the act of eating is a combination of several different cultural features. The kitchen is an indication of civilization. Generally we can characterize societies who do not use agricultural products and eat mostly meat and game as primitive. The Turks have made various types of food at various stages of civilization, and each stage of civilization has had its effect on today’s eating habits.

In generally, we observe the following characteristics in Turkish foods:

• Nomadism and the agricultural economic structure have affected Turkish food.
• Foods exhibit variety according to our country’s geographical regions.
• Foods generally exhibit differentiation according to families’ socioeconomic level.
• The variety of foods is indicative of reciprocal influence with other cultures.
• Our cuisine is influenced by our religious structure, norms and values.
• Eating habits display a certain degree of differentiation according to gender.

It is within this context that we shall address the subject.

A. The Influence of Agricultural Structure and Nomadic Culture

In most of the Turkish tribes, and within this context, in the foods of nomads, plant were of little importance. The chief staples of the Old Turks were mutton and milk products (Rasonyi, 1971). Chief among milk products was kımız (kumiss), or fermented mare’s milk. Though with an alcohol content of 2-6% it is not extremely nutritious, it is refreshing and relieves hunger. With quite a high caloric content (450 calories per litre) due to its butterfat, it had a one-dimensional nutritive value. In the agricultural economy, it is especially grains that comprise the majority of Turkish foodstuffs. Dry beans or chickpeas, bulgur pilaf accompanied by an onion, have become practically the symbol of Turkish food, and are the most popular foods among the rural people. In restaurants along the roads of Anatolia, isn’t the most-heard order, “bir kuru” (one dry [beans])? Even if we eat it in the Army till we’re sick of it, and as many jokes of which it may be the subject, it’s still an indispensable food in Turkey.

Contrary to European and American culture, Turks most often eat foods cooked with water; so much so that “sulu yemek” (foods with water) comprises a distinct category of dishes. Most vegetables an grains are cooked in water with ground or cubed meat and onions. For this reason the Turks have developed a very rich variety of soups. Even today, soup is the preferred breakfast food in rural areas.

One of the most common Turkish foods is tarhana soup, made from tarhana, a highly nutritious product made from yogurt and flour or wheat. Other very common soups are yogurt soup, flour soup, red lentil and rice soups. “Kaşıklayıver” (“spoon it up”) is an expression of “sulu yemek,” is it not? Sulu yemek naturally encourages the consumption of lots of much bread. For this reason, bread is very much eaten in our country; it is a very common belief that one cannot leave the table satisfied if there is no bread. For this reason bread is made either at home or bought from the bakery and eaten in large quantities. The lack of commercial bakeries in the villages makes it necessary to make bread at home. The making of tandir ekmek (yufka-paper-thin flatbread) or various types leavened bread (bazlama) on certain days takes up a great amount of women’s time. Commercial ovens mostly sell the loaf types which are not so much made at home. For Turks, bread is a sacred food. It has a religious quality. The Prophet Mohammed had this to say about bread: Show respect to bread, a holy figure, the symbol of the fruitfulness of the heaven and earth. For this reason, fragments of bread are not thrown on the ground. One who has bread to eat, gives thanks to God. The prevalence and popularity of bread and other grain products is an indication of the agricultural economic structure.

The chief types of breads made by Turkish villagers are yufka (paper thin bread), home bread, saç bread (cooked on a convex grıddle), bread cooked between two convex griddles, leavened pan bread, tandır bread (cooked on the walls of an oven that opens from the top), stone oven bread, sourdough bread and ebeleme (a leavened bread cooked on a convex griddle). Other bread-like products include corn breads, pide (an open-faced pizza-like dish), bazlama (a thick, flat leavened bread), gözleme (unleavened bread dough rolled thin and folded over a filling, then cooked on a griddle), cızlama (layered yufka with a filling), kete (baked layered bread filled with buttered flour), çörek (egg bread), kurabiye (cookies) and börek. Although nutritionists state that surviving solelly on bread is harmful, a 1964 study in the U.S. showed that eating only bread had no ill effects on the health. (Tekeli, 1970). Prof. Tekeli also reminds us that contrary to popular belief, breads made in the villages contain much more than only flour; they are made with the addition of other foodstuffs and are eaten with other things as well. The use of yeast in bread making also changes according to ty pe.

Baking of bread is mostly done on convex griddles (saç), on the walls of clay ovens (tandır), in village ovens or in modern ranges. Various types are baked daily, weekly or even monthly. The long-lasting varieties are made with different methods. The large batches and long shelf life of village bread is due to the fact that the village woman has so many duties.

Another clear indication of an agricultural economy among the Turks is the prevalence of dough-based foods. [Translator’s note: foods based on dough, whether pastries or pasta, are recognized as a distinct category in Turkish food, and known as hamur işi, literally “dough work.”] One of the most popular is “mantı,” similar to ravioli, with meat, yogurt and butter, which is mostly made at home. In recent years, special country style restaurants offering mantı and gözleme have become extremely common.

Other hamur işi includes erişte (homemade noodles), cooked both by themselves and in soup. Börek (pastry made from dough rolled to paper thinness) filled with vegetables, meat, cheese or potatoes is another popular dough-based dish. A sweet pastry, Turkish baklava, which may be filled with walnuts, pistachios, other nuts or cream) is known the world over.

Slow Boat To Buyukada (Island in Bosphorus)

Take the slow boat to Buyukada island. It takes about one and a half hours and only costs about two pounds each way. It is a lovely way to escape the scorching heat of Istanbul as the boat is open and breezy. You can watch the people getting on and off the boat and the tea sellers coming around- buy a cup it is refreshing and cheap.The boat stops at two islands before reaching Buyukada so you can enjoy the scenery. Buyukada is a great place for a day trip or overnight stay. You can buy an infinite variety of ice-creams, drink coffee by the port and watch the boats and people, or have a kebab. If you are feeling energetic hire a bicycle; but if you want to relax hire a horse drawn carriage taxi; then tour the island. You will be impressed by all the authentically restored wooden mansions. If you decide to spend a night, you have to stay in the iconic 1900's Hotel Splendid. Don't be surprised if you bump into Hercule Poirot in the elegantly faded drawing room.

Topkapı Palace chamber opened to public for first time

Brought to İstanbul following Sultan Selim I's conquest of Egypt, the Mukaddes Emanetler (Sacred Trusts) have been carefully preserved in the Topkapı Palace for long years but are only now viewable by the public at large.

Among the most important of these articles is the Hırka-i Şerif, considered an important relic left behind from the Prophet Muhammad. It is said that some Ottoman sultans would bring this garment with them whenever they traveled. For example, Ahmed I built a special suite to house the Hırka-i Şerif on the grounds of the Istavroz Palace in Beylerbeyi where he took up residence from time to time. When the sultan moved to the palace, the garment was transported there in a special silver case and placed in the suite. The silver case that used to accompany Ahmed I is among the items on exhibition for the first time at the Topkapı Palace.

The case is only one of a dozen articles of historical and religious significance being introduced to the public for the first time this Ramadan. The other items include a silver candlestick belonging to Mahmud II, a silver box from the 15th century, early 19th century candlesticks used to light the Sacred Trusts chamber, a cover draped over the case of the Hırka-i Şerif that is embroidered with silver and as long as a man is tall, a gold-gilded silver box from the era of Ahmed I and the 18th century silver keys to the Hırka's protective case. These articles, which have accompanied the Hırka for centuries, will be exhibited for the first time in a public venue. As is normal procedure during Ramadan, a letter sent by Prophet Muhammad to the Egyptian ruler Muqawqis and a copy of the Quran that belonged to the Muslim Caliph Uthman will be on display as well.

Yahya Kemal’s enthusiasm

When you pass through the entrance of the room housing the Sacred Trusts, a humble chamber within the palace walls, you have moved into the Arzhane section, where officers ready to be received by the sultan used to await his order and permission. You can almost feel the excitement once shared by Yahya Kemal, a renowned Turkish poet who was surprised when he heard the recitation of the Quran in the room upon the insistence of a friend, a recitation that had been continued for four centuries. There are relics attributed to the Prophet Muhammad in this room: swords, garments and many others. The Hırka-i Şerif and a case of special flags can be visited after passing through Arzhane through a glass door.

The division housing the temporary exhibition is stunning, beginning with the cover preserving the Hırka-i Şerif, which shines gloriously and is an artistic masterpiece. Next to this are the Hırka-i Şerif's protective box and the silver candlesticks that provide lighting for the room. A display case here features other special articles, including a silver box to hold incense and fragrance and the broomstick and dustpan once used to clean the room. Each of the 12 articles in the room, through their preservation to the present day, demonstrate the great respect held for the Prophet Muhammad.

[The Guardian] Hamlet takes a feminist turn in Turkey

When a group of farmers' wives in a remote village in Turkey staged Hamlet earlier this month, it was the sheer exoticism that attracted the local media. The Prince of Denmark appeared on stage in the baggy shalwar of an Anatolian peasant.

Gravediggers launched into bawdy Turkish traditional songs. "Hamlet becomes Hamit," ran the headlines. Fair enough. But it's this slightly patronising approach that drove the members of the Arslanköy Women's Theatre Group on to the stage in the first place. "We're uneducated, we're women, we're villagers and so we don't count: that's the general view," says Ümmiye Koçak, the 52-year old who abridged the play, directed it and played the eponymous lead. For her [Koçak], and the women working with her, theatre has become a platform to confirm they exist.